Any suggestions?ģ/4" backs! That to me is overkill. I began to think that the reason for the "slotted back" was to allow scribing on the sides which protrude. The back of my cabinets follow the contour of the wall which has a mind of its own. The reason for my asking the question was that I'm having a hard time hanging the cabinets on walls that are neither plum or flat. This leaves an overhang of about 3/4" where the cleats are then placed. The larger manufacturers around town slide the back into a groove running along the sides, bottom and top of the cabinet. This gives me a perfectly square cabinet. I'm building my boxes with 3/4" backs planted on. I'm using the word "gable" interchangeably with "cabinet side." It seems that designers use this word in their drawings. I put a level on the wall before installing uppers and pin a shim on the studs where I will attach the cabinet to get a nice level flat surface to avoid racking the cabinet. I lay my lower cabinets out to be 1/4" from the back wall, which allows for wows in the drywall and a little extra good time if my measurement was off a hair. I use the 1/2" back stapled and screwed to the box. Well, that’s how it has worked for me, anyway. If you insure that your parts are square and your back is square, your box will be square. Square boxes are more a function of square parts and square edges where these parts meet, then whether or not the back sits in a rebate. I’ve been applying a 1/4" back flush to the carcasses for 12 years and so far no problems. I haven’t heard the term “gables” used in relation to cabinets either, but in framing all the time. A back that is "planted on" can be a bear on a convex wall surface when installing. The 1/4" material is economical and effective. Some put the cleats behind a 1/4" back and others use hanging hardware. Putting the back in a groove insures square boxes and is a defense against framers and the warped studs that they use for the wall. I am assuming from the above post that these are finished ends, but then I do not understand your question. I have never heard the term "gable" used with cabinets. But I know many shops who use 1/4 very successfully, too. Also, makes screwing to the wall a bit easier. The difference in cost on a typical kitchen here is roughly $50-$60. Both require more time by cutting/installing a nailer. Costs more, but is a lot quicker for me than to dado the back for recessed or plant on a 1/4" back. I may be odd, but I use 1/2" for backs, planted on and screwed. Which is better and why? Is it a matter of material cost or is it an installation consideration? Many cabinets I've seen have the gables extending past the back of the cabinet. I'm currently building my cabinets with the backs flush to the gables. I'm new to the business and am looking for better ways of doing things.
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